Most women of this era are far from the apron-toting June Cleavers of the past, and since independence crosses all walks of life, it follows that car mantanance is no longer just a man's job. Old or new, warranty or not, having a few simple tips at hand could save you potential problems.

The number one priority is to know your vehicle. The manual or handbook manufacturers provide is not just something that you toss in the glove box and forget about. It contains all the basics. Type of fuel required, size of your gas tank, type of engine, tire size, tire inflation, fuse replacement spedifications and diagrams, instrument panel diagram, and usually a general maintenance schedule.

This schedule outlines when to change the oil and filters, rotate tires and change of season considerations, such as adding anti-freeze and summer coolants. If you have a manufacturers warranty, then you may be obligated to follow this schedule. Any problems that may occur in the future, found to be caused by maintenance neglect, may not be covered or may void your warranty.

It is wise to set up a log book to keep track of all maintenance, fuel consumption and driving practices. This will give you, at a glance, a good history of your vehicle should you need it.

The first consideration is fuel. Most newer cars require unleaded gas. This comes in various grades from Regular to Super or Premium.

The difference is the amount of octane added. Most gas stations offer three grades of octane. Regular is usually 87, then a mid-grade would be 89 and premium, 92 or 93 octane. These ratings measure a gasoline's ability to resist engine knock, which can result from premature ignition. There is a general consensus that putting Premium gasoline does little more for any engine's performance than does the Regular or mid-grade gas.

Knowing the capacity of your gas tank, figuring your average miles per gallon and knowing how far you can drive on empty are as important as the fuel.

To figure out mpg (miles per gallon), fill your tank and set your trip counter to zero or mark down the mileage at the time of fill up. Also make note of the number of gallons it took to fill the tank. Do not add gas until you reach empty. Then divide the miles driven by the gallons of gas and you have your average mpg. Of course, there will be a difference in averages between stop and go city driving and that of straight highway driving.

Add this to your log book.

In order to estimate how much further you can drive once the fuel indicator reaches the empty mark, subtract the number of gallons of gas you put in from your manufacturers handbood gas tank capacity. So, for instance, say your tank's capacity is 15.5 gallons and you put in 12.5 at fill up. You still have three gallons of gas in your tank, once the fuel indicator shows empty. Multiply this three gallons by your average mpg and you will know how many more miles you can drive before you will run out of gas completely. I don't recommend that you put this to the test, unless of course, you have a spare container of gas in your trunk.

Add this to your log book.

Speaking of having a one or two gallon container of gas on hand for those unexpected emergencies:

WARNING

PORTABLE CONTAINER FIRE HAZARD

Improper filling of portable gasoline containers creates danger of fire.

To fill a container:

Place approved container on the ground away from vehicle or trailer. DO NOT fill any container that is inside a vehicle or on a truck/trailer bed. Keep nozzle in contact with the container while filling. Do not use a nozzle lock-open device.

It is unlawful and dangerous to dispense gasoline into unapproved or improperly labeled containers such as, soda bottles, old bleach or detergent bottles. Make sure you use only those containers specifically made for gas and that your container is placed in a tip free position and is properly capped when storing in your trunk.

Most manufacturers suggest that oil and filters be changed approximately every 3,000 miles. This ensures that the oil circulating through your engine maintains optimum viscosity. As the engine heats, so does your oil and over time it will thicken and pick up debris from the friction of working parts. Ignoring this could cause major damage to internal parts and end up costing you a new engine.

If you purchased your car from a dealer then it is advisable to use their shop for oil changes. If not, there are many franchises around that specialize in this. First, however, ask around for favorable recommendations from those with the same vehicle as you or who at least have had positive experiences at a particular shop. You do not need to replace the oil with anything other than that required by your manual. If pushed to use an upgrade, or one that is supposed to give better performance, just know it is not necessary. Just say no.

Most shops will also top off your other fluids such as, brake and transmission and check the ratio of coolant/anti-freeze to water in your radiator. They may also check your air filter. These do not always need replacement each oil change, so make sure the technician shows you the air filter before agreeing to a new one. An air filter that is more than 3/4 full or darkened, may not perform well and should be changed. One with slight discoloration or darkening can usually wait until the next oil change.

If the mechanic suggests other parts replacements, you should ask why he feels this is necessary and to show you the worn part first. This tells him that you are an informed consumer and not to take advantage of the situation. If, once he shows you a worn part, you still cannot decide, then assess the situation.

Were you having any problems with your car before you pulled in? Have you noticed changes in mileage or performance? Take out your manual and check for specifics on this part. If, you still cannot decide and putting off replacement for a bit is not detrimental to the performance of your car, then refuse.

Add this to your log book.

For those of you who are game to check your own fluids, this should be done at least every two weeks. Your handbook will state where these recepticles are, what the levels should read, how to read them and what type and grade of fluid to use. If not, find a full service station that will do this for you. Most times this is a free service or requires only a nominal fee.

Tires are your stability factor. The condition of your tires effects road handling as well as mileage. The difference between a tire in good to excellent condition and one that is worn, can be compared to wearing a good boot on snow and ice or wearing your slippers. The good boot will give you a stable connection whereas your slippers will send you into a fall. This is true with your tires which are your connection with the driving surface. A good tire will give you the best connection. A worn tire can be dangerous.

In some states there is a required tread depth in order to pass inspections. Each tire has the psi (pounds per square inch), marked on it. This is the maximum amount of air required for optimum performance. You will find this on the outer wall of the tire, along with the size and brand name.

Again, if you want to keep track of this yourself, you will either need a tire guage or find an air pump with a tire guage hose. With a guage, you can check the psi. For instance, if you know that your tires should be inflated to 35 psi and your guage reads less than that, you need more air.

Tire rotation affords longer wear and more stability. Uneven wear may indicate a problem with the alignment of your vehicle. Rotation can be scheduled according to your manual and perfomed either by your dealership or a recommended shop.

Purchasing new tires can be tricky. It is, unfortunately another area of car maintenance where women are taken advantage. There are hundreds of brands and styles of tires. Your best protection against an over zealous sales person is to know what your manual requires for your car. Tires are sold in size, construction, weather, mileage and style categories.

It is always a good rule of thumb to replace a tire with that which is already on your car. If you purchased a used vehicle, then you would go with the size and type recommended in your handbook.

How high up the cost and performance scale you want to go from there, depends on your driving practices, needs and budget. If you are not sure if the sales person is being honest with you, just tell him that you have already checked your manual for the requirements. And of course, you already have indeed checked the manual. This should let him know that you are not walking in there blind to the facts.

Again, add this to your log book, when done.

Always have work done at a reputable shop. Always ask that old parts be saved for you to view after the work is done. Some vehicles do not require dealer parts and may perform just as well with remanufactured or off brand parts. Get guarantees in writing. Never sign a work order if you have any questions about the necessity of the repair or the mechanic. Never sign a blank work order.

Now that you have some basic information, you should be able to field unnecessary repairs, parts replacement and/or inflated costs.

Just as you would get the feel of your job by keeping track of how and when to do things and/or know your children by paying attention, getting a "feel" for your car is the best way to stay on top of potential problems. So, get out that manual/handbood. Read it. Follow the suggested maintenance schedules, keep it handy and always keep your log book, up to date.